Please note that we made this sliding TV cover for a small 24″ television. Lawless Hardware made it really easy for us to install the cover since we had to separate the slides and join them back together during installation. The roller bearing and latch system on the drawer slides we got from D. It’s my favorite thing in the room so far…well, next to the shiplap walls and ceiling. I put a coat of Modern Master’s Dead Flat Finish over the entire piece to protect it. I painted the boards the same color as the walls. Jason used 3″ screws to secure the 2″ X 3″s into the studs. It took both of us to hang the cover up so I couldn’t take pictures. The 2″ X 3″ boards will be screwed into the wall to hold the cover. The other side of the drawer slide is mounted on the inside of the cover. Then, he mounted 2 sets of 12″ drawer slides along the edge of the each board. Next, he cut (2) 2″ x 3″ boards the length of the inside of the box. This is the depth of the TV with the mount (4″), plus the thickness of the wood front (1-1/4″), plus an extra 1″ of clearance. The sides of the box are 6-1/4″ and were glued and then nailed in with 1-1/2″ nails. We hung the TV on the wall so we knew what depth we would need to make the sides of the cover. The gray wash looks blue in this picture but it’s much more muted in person. Jason continued to cut each piece individually and alternated the colors of the boards. The safest way to do this is with a hand saw. Here’s a tip if you end up with bowed boards: cut mid-depth notches in the center of the board and it’ll flatten out once nailed. He cut the boards at a 45-degree angle on the miter saw one at a time, glued, then nailed them to the plywood with 1″ brad nails. This would give him the template for the cuts for the pallet boards. Then he marked the center of each side and sectioned it into triangles. Jason marked the center of the rectangle vertically and horizontally. Usually, this is the wood I use for making signs. We tend to hoard wood knowing we’ll find a way to use it one day. It’s funny that even the plywood base of this project is made from reclaimed wood. We cut our 1/2″ plywood to 18″ x 36″ so we’d end up with a rectangle that would make 2 equal squares when cut in half. It truly is a flat finish and there are no visible brush strokes. It’s the closest thing to keeping the look of rustic, bare wood but it’s still protected. One board was beautiful as-is, so I used my new favorite sealer, Modern Master’s Dead Flat Varnish. I used Minwax Fruitwood and Weathered Oak. Lawless Hardwareģ″ wood screws for mounting the cover to the wallįirst, we gathered our pallet boards, sanded them and stained them. Heat-treated pallet boards ( here’s a great article on everything you wanted to know about pallet wood)īrad nails (we used a nail gun and 1″ and 1-1/2″ nails)įull-extension drawer slides from D. (affiliate links are added for your convenience) To make a reclaimed wood sliding TV cover, you’ll need the following: Today’s project is a double-duty functional art piece…with a little hocus-pocus thrown in. I’ve never been good at keeping secrets so I did a pretty good job at not spilling the beans. It will also turn on the Bose TV Speaker if the speaker is off and put it into the Bluetooth source.Out of all the projects we’ve had on our to-do list for the modern farmhouse cottage guest shed, the reclaimed wood sliding television cover is the one I’ve been most excited about. This will automatically switch to the Bluetooth source. You can simply “force connect” your previously paired device to the Bose TV Speaker by going to your device’s Bluetooth settings menu and selecting the Bose TV Speaker. You can go to your Bluetooth settings and “force connect” from previously paired devices. Once connected, you do not need the remote moving forward. However, for music streaming, you need the included remote to place your Bose TV Speaker in Bluetooth mode and connect your Bluetooth-enabled device for the first time. See Using another remote to control your Bose system in the Bose Support section for instructions. Also, the soundbar can be programmed to “learn” the volume and mute commands from your existing remote. If you connect the Bose TV Speaker to your TV using the supplied optical cable, you can use the included remote. Or you can program a third-party universal remote to control (please refer to your universal remote control for programming instructions and the appropriate Bose IR codes). HDMI-CEC will allow the Bose TV Speaker to automatically turn on when you turn on your TV and your existing remote control will control the Bose TV Speaker volume. If your TV is HDMI-CEC enabled, you can connect the Bose TV Speaker to your TV using an HDMI cable (sold separately) and continue to use the remote control you are already familiar with to control your TV.
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